pat curran surfer

It was a stance built to make the wave, and in the process became an embodiment of the style of the day. A few years later, at 18, he moved to La Jolla and began surfing. Pat Curren of Mission Beach and La Jolla infamy, who pioneered modern outlines on big wave guns, surfing Waimea Bay and living a life he built on his terms. A three-bedroom, fully furnished joint on the North Shore, they rented the place for a paltry $65 a month. That was pretty standard in the industry. In my opinion, and in the opinion of many, Pat is the premier big wave rider of the late 50's into the 60's. And certainly a pioneer in the refineing of the big wave gun design. Born in Carlsbad in 1932, Curren ran with a hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla early in his surf life. We simplified and in the BeachGrit way, made a fantasy surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive! I asked if I could see it, and he begrudgingly pulls it out, just a piece of hamburger, covered with old tobacco and pocket lint, unbelievably bad., (Mike) Diffenderferand those guys tried to get him to a doctor, but Pat just sat and rocked in a chair for a couple of days, Brown continued. Then I stopped, turned around and looked across the lot. Pat disappeared in a cloud of fumes, headed toward Sunset, continued Van Dyke. Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club,which would go on to become one of the most infamous surf clubs in existence. Pat Curren Surfing Edited By Abby Brown Pat Curren Surfing Edited By Abby Brown AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest. A surf lifesaving carnival was cancelled and beaches along Sydneys prized northern beaches were closed today after a pretty lil dolphin, those goofy ready-to-play golden retrievers of the sea, was mauled by a pack of bull sharks at Manlys Shelley beach. Fred has it in October, but it was November 1957. Gordon was charged with the murder of Patricia Curran on 2 March 1953 at the Co Antrim spring assizes before Lord McDermott LCJ (lord chief justice), a close friend of the Curran family, and a jury. Pat Curren Surfboards Guns T-Shirt On November 5th 1957, Pat Curren was among the first group of guys to successfully paddle out and surf Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Hawaii. Open Thread: Comment Live on the Eddie Aikau Invitational as world's most prestigious surf contest runs for first time in nearly a decade! Pat and I were considering getting some rope to lasso Tom and sort of bungee swing him out of there when Pat's phone rang. . He was 90 years old. Curren peaked in his career around the 60s, embarking on his discovery-filled journey. And, of course, son Tom influenced pretty much every aspiring surfer in the 80s and 90s. Pat Curren streaks down the face at Waimea Bay. La Jolla, . Luckily, a swell had arrived on the last morning of the trip; I paddled out at Swamis, caught a few fun ones, and then ascended the long flight of stairs back to the parking lot. There's no smoke and mirrors here: just an organic collaboration between two surfing . We hungry! -- I believe it was the original, I pretty much started following him around after that. Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. They have to make it past the Round of 32. That era of men were built different. He was named one of the top 20 surfers in the world by the first SURFER magazine Poll in the early 1960's. His was what you would call a "big name." But he was not comfortable in the limelight and kept to himself. Currens boards were designed to go straight down the line, hard and fast. Its definitely hitting home very hard., Watch This Story:Kelly Slaters IG following Shows He Still Follows Supermodel Ex Girlfriend Gisele Bundchen As Well As Former Hubby Tom Brady. The Surfing Wizards Scoring in Cali! He was famously patient, surfing far fewer waves at Waimea than many of his counterparts, but surfing waves that counted. Make sure there is pathways, make sure they [lifesavers] can still see the water and see their flagged areas, he said. Then again, Pat Curren's life as a surfer is almost unbelievable. And thats a big reason why he was so great., Im not sure anyone really knew Pat, Fred Van Dyke, ; theyd be so impressed and nervous, they could hardly speak to him. Pat Curren (Carlsbad, [1] 8 de agosto de 1932) [2] um surfista dos Estados Unidos, conhecido como o primeiro campeo americano de surfe.. Biografia. Im sure some of them came from rich families, but they rejected that kind of life, ridiculed it. Pat disappeared in a cloud of fumes, headed toward Sunset, , and hed pound on the table, going, Ahh! Pat Curren will move on. Im runnin out of places. Does the beach cabana plague make you think twice about planning your next surf trip to the Lucky Country or are you more devil may care in your approach to life? Db x Stab buy you the first round because reciprocity is sexy. At 16, he dropped out of high school. Fred Van Dyke quoted. He began surfing at 18 after moving to La Jolla, and quickly climbed the local hierarchy to become a founding member of the notorious Windansea Surf Club. Like many surfers of that era, Curren had a style all his own. Pat Curren (1932-) will move on. Riding Giants: Directed by Stacy Peralta. The waves in the Bay are almost flat for about 90% of the year. A Mission Beach, San Diego, kid, he was there on the day in 1957 when Oahu's Waimea Bay was first surfed. How to do a Frontside Cutback With Josh Kerr, 10 Things You Should Take on Your Next Surf Road Trip, 6 Female-Founded Surfwear Brands We Tested This Summer, Jon Wayne Freeman "Charges" The Wedge, Seeks Sponsorship Deal. To be good, solid Waimea, it has to be the type of break that rolls around the point, with a good, strong, twenty-foot-or-bigger swell. Pat was the first guy to produce the ultimate gun, said Fred Van Dyke. Amazingly, Pat made the wave for probably the best ride ever attained at Waimea Bay, . Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. Maybe a 15 day, just beginning to crumble on the outside. Pat Curren made the finest big-wave boards in the late '50s and early '60s, AND caught the biggest heaviest waves, AND was arguably the coolest surfer alive. Webb. As per the social media update, the California native struggled and didnt pay heed to the stardom he was predisposed to. For the next three hours, we looked over the boards I had brought with me, talked tools, travel stories, and his early years of board building with Velzy. It was his mother, Tom's . The . At 16, he 'dropped out' of high school. Photo EOS. His impact was . The 87-year-old was living in a Chevy Tahoe and trailer with his wife Mary and their special needs daughter. Today it's Cabo, but soon that, too, will pass, just like California, the North Shore and Costa Rica. Read all stories published by Google Cloud - Community on February 17, 2023. He was 90 years old. RIP., I Remember EVERYTHING He Did; Legend/Epic! I even caught wind that he may have been doing a bit of shaping out there too, despite having no shaping bay to work in. All the while, Pats holding his hand in his pocket, Brown described. I was not aware of the power of the soup, as I got air right after the impact of the soup which saved me from having a bad wipe-out., is a small bay surrounded by low rocky cliffs. If they paid in advance they had to wait. A post shared by Birds Surf Shed (@birdssurfshed). Van Dyke, 1989, pp. Subscribe to Pat and his toddler son, Tom, who would carry the family name into pro surfing, winning three world titles and being regarded as one of the best surfers of all time. With the leftover lumber they built surfboard racks, When it was finished, Pat stood back. Theyre there to make sure everyone is safe at the beach. He had so many friends everywhere. Thats what happens when you get caught up in the magic joy of chance encounters with people you look up to. Pat Curren is useless at 90 years outdated. Greg Noll is most often given credit for being the first one to ride Waimea after Dickie Cross died there and Woody Brown nearly ate it there. . Watch: Surf Films Are Hard, Featuring Jai Glindeman, The Dream Of Owning An Affordable Home Near Good Waves Is Not Dead. I would stop the car to look at Waimea Bay. Thomas Roland Curren was born on July 3, 1964, in Newport Beach, California. Jenkins, 1995, p. 83. Toms the same. Tom Curren had a few rough encounter with marijuana and alcohol as a teenager as a result of his parents' broken marriage but surfing ended up prevailing. Full Spectrum Services LLP 2022 | All Rights Reserved. Decades before the term "collab" started showing up in marketing meetings, legendary big wave surfer and shaper Pat Curren made boards for Yater Surfboards. The thing looked scary just sitting on the floor. If fashion trends follow the '20-year rule,' aren't we due for a Y2K renaissance? Copyright a360media 2023. In 1964, Tom Curren was born. Pat Curren first visited Hawaii in 1955, and two years later was among the first group of surfers to ride Waimea Bay; the slim regularfooter wiped out on nearly all his rides, as did the rest of the half-dozen surfers out that day, largely because their surfboards were unsuited to the conditions. His wife, Bev, Im going to paddle out and just look at it, said Greg. He's a fan of Capital City Showcase trivia. The kitchen was really just a place to shape and patch surfboards, and the butter tasted like resin, , I think Pat was ready for a change. The irony was, at the end of the first day, when we were all sitting together rehashing our rides, everybody wondered, Why the hell have we been sitting on the beach for the past three years? It wasnt a huge break that day. Or a more impenetrable one. Yup, answered Curren, who was famously tight-lipped. Just tore the insides out of it. According to lore, almost no waves were successfully ridden that day, largely in part to their surfboards. Away from the glam and glitzy world, he led a humbled life with his wife and daughter. After a series of unfortunate incidents in the surfing domain, another legendary surfer passes away. This past January, I hopped on a flight for a quick trip to California. We could buy 1,000 board feet of balsa from, , but Cheney stayed back on the beach. The original. Pat featured in many first-generation surf movies including Surf Crazy (1959), Barefoot Adventure (1960), Cavalcade of Surf (1962), and Gun Ho! Email to Malcolm, May 10, 2011. All the time, I was trying to build up my own confidence. But not just any leather jacket this particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen and was given to East Coast Surfing Champion Gary Propper. , the waves have to break fifteen to eighteen feet before they start triggering on the reefs. A former editor at Surfer Magazine, The Surfers Journal and ESPN, today he writes for a number of publications, including Picket Fence Media, Surfline and the World Surf League. Reactions: hanger18 and john4surf. Neat break, but a board racker, said Nelson. Pat Curren (far left) was the archetypal surf pioneer of the 1950s: a dedicated big-wave explorer, an expert board builder all mixed with a bit of good, old-fashioned pirate. By then the other guys had come in too. My husband, Pat Curren, is in it and he would love to take a look. nd a three-board quiver from PANDA surfboards. How Coldwater Adventurer Josh Mulcoy Stumbled Upon a Perfect Wave in Alaska, Surf Trips Don't Get Much Better Than This, Surfer Sam Mallows Embodies Polo Mens New Sport Shop Collection, Carissa Moore and Gabriel Medina Are Officially the 2021 World Champions, Mason Ho and Sheldon Paishon Chase Down Never-Ending Indonesian Tubes, These North African Tubes Will Put You in a Trance, Watch Now: "The Curious Tales of Italo Ferreira", Heres What You Need to Know Before Buying Your First Mid-Length, High-End Surf Gear We Don't Need (But Absolutely Want), How Twin-Fin Experimentalist Torren Martyn Redefined What Works in Good Waves, 12 Female Surf Photographers You Should Be Following Right Now, Wanna Shape Your Own Board? Pat Curren was an avid surfer tackling Waimea Bay & surfboard shaper. Over the years, Curren became one of the best and most influential surfers in the world. Although Gordon stated that on the night in question he revising for an exam he had failed, while the rest of his comrades were out dancing, he was . The Curren family broke apart in 1981 and Pat moved to Costa Rica. Known for being magnetic but near mute at times, Pat built a reputation for his quirky sense of humor and often mystifying personality. Jenkins, 1995, p. 79. Each one of his boards was a cross between a work of art and a weapon, like some beautifully crafted spear. Revered because he, in an age when surfing was young and not an industry quite yet, embodied the life that surfers now have put on a pedestal. Today, August 9th, Pat turns 88 years old. It was Harry Schurch, a mild-mannered history teacher [and lifeguard] originally from. He and Peter Cole, Some said Pat made a science of Waimea, that he was the ultimate craftsman, Nevertheless, all those who rode with him in those days remember Pat Curren as a quiet, brooding presence, . In 1955 Curren moved to Hawaii to surf the larger waves of the North Shore of the island of Oahu. . A lot of California guys sort of brawled their way into acceptance in Hawaii, but Pat never had to do that. The fans hold nothing but love for the iconic athlete. . Pat Curren was one of surfing's most revered. Jenkins, 1995, pp. He was characteristically quiet, and carried himself with an utterly distinct and captivating blend of dignity and humility. (@surfival_league). I think it really impressed him that I went out there. Pat lived in 1860, at address, Pennsylvania. Used to drive me insane. Sign Up, Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia. Pat Curren Pat Curren, Legendary Surfer and Shaper, Dead at 90 | Flipboard Flipboard Home Landscape version of the Flipboard logo Newsletters Search Sign up Log in Home #Central America He had his firstborn Tom Currenthe 3x World Champ who inherited his fathers reserved nature and innate sense of style in 1964. "Imagine how much vodka he could buy," notes Charlie, referring to the GoFundMe account setup by a New York shaper to help the old guy out. A few years back, historian Matt Warshaw wrote, The camera loves Pat in a way that it loves few others in the sport, and he was good enough to occasionally play along with the filmmakers. The rest of us were running around, you know, Did you get that picture? while hed just sitting way outside, and all of a sudden the set of the day comes, and hes on the damn thing. Youre trying to keep the flags going down, which we have to do anyway, but you have to be smart about it., Surf Life Saving Queensland Gold Coast coordinator Nathan Fife encouraged beachgoers to use common sense when setting up their Italianate roofs. Nearly mute Surfboard design pioneer and daddy of three-time world champ, Pat Curren, dead at ninety, I have a thing for beautiful damaged surfers and the Currens to me have always felt like a two-for-one deal. Jenkins, 1995, p. 83. The elder Curren started surfing in California in 1950, at the age of eighteen. Already a member? Pat Curren's surfing roots were in La Jolla, where he began stand-up surfing in 1950, at the age of 18. Sign up here. Two years later, in 1961, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people, Jeanine continued. A new design had to be created to handle The Bay., , at that time, was still a ways down the road. The last I remember was seeing Pat ahead of me on the way out of a gigantic curl, while I was completely inside of the curl knowing that I didnt have a chance. It was about going for the biggest wave and hoping you didnt get killed. Jenkins, 1995, pp. Most days, weather and health permitting, he works on a template outside their small trailer, in the open air. I made my way over to the car slowly and in, Ill admit, a certain degree of disbelief. His father, Pat Curren, pioneered big-wave surfing in Hawaii. And while he didnt have much of a local connection to the San Clemente or Dana Point surf scenes, Currens impact can be directly linked to the heavy-water strategies applied today by someone such as Greg Long. The image Ill always have is from Waimea, . But when we are in moments of dire need, when weve exhausted all viable options on our own, it is through simple acts of honest vulnerability that we can open ourselves to the inherent kindness in each human beings heart. How Do John Florence And Gabe Medina Both Lose At Full-Throttle Sunset? As a La Jolla youngster, Curren didn't start surfing until the age of 18, in 1950. I mean, the most Pat would ever say in a day was about eight words, and I just said all eight of em., , he continued diving in the form of free diving, Pat, Brown addressed Curren, I heard you got bit out there., All the while, said Brown, Pats holding his hand in his pocket. Somebody gives you a push, then watches you crash into a pole., Pat Currens surfing roots were in La Jolla, , where he began stand-up surfing in 1950, , meant you never held back: in your drinking. These were: George Downing. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. Thank you for signing up. Curren had learned how to attach slabs of wood to the nose and tail of a board to get more rocker, or curve. Later we were introduced to the real Waimea. We thought it was maybe 12 feet. Presented by Encyclopedia of Surfing @encyclopedia_of_surfing . At 18, two years after dropping out of high school, he moved to La Jolla and began surfing; he later became an original member of the La Jolla-based Windansea Surf Club, the loudest and rowdiest group of its kind in the nation. Rewatch "Riss", "Pentacoastal" and more of this year's s On the road with one of the most stylish surfers on this generation, These talented women offer unique perspectives on lineups around the world, Just dont come complaining to us if you plane a finger off, Not another Instagram carousel, this is the crme de la crme from our year in print. Except that for Harry, who had been overlooked all those years, it was closure. 0 coins. Eat! Reluctant legend passes on. According to Matt Warshaws Encyclopedia of Surfing, Curren was the most patient of the big-wave surfers, and would often sit quietly for two hours or longer waiting for the right wave. 10/02/2023. But time, as is generally the case, wore on for Pat. Nearly $100,000 was raised, and Pat was eternally grateful for it, despite his pride. After a series of unfortunate incidents in the. Pat Curren falleci a los 90 aos tras no poder superar una larga enfermedad, dejando un gran legado y respeto total por los pioneros del surf de grandes olas. Its definitely hitting home very hard., He lost his life to a gruesome encounter while surfing at Nazare on January 5th, Kelly Slaters IG following Shows He Still Follows Supermodel Ex Girlfriend Gisele Bundchen As Well As Former Hubby Tom Brady. I realized at some point that I was dehydrated and a bit dizzy, standing there baking in the sun, still wearing my wetsuit. DP Times Daily Glass Love by Andrew Kidman is awe inspiring.. Legend, Sorry to hear another legend has passed on to surf heaven, Not many of the greats left, sad to say. My dad dove with him at La Jolla cove and partied at Maynard's with him in the late 50s. The only thing that comforts me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved.. Yeah, well, what happened? continued Brown. On the drive back to the, His friends say Pat Curren could easily go a full day without speaking. Legs together and in a slight crouch, Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep his back stiff and straight. He didnt care about the act itself, called it overrated, no big deal, but, being a history teacher, it bothered him to hear the inaccurate versions go into the books. Sign In, Want to join? He just said the hell with everything else. It was the only surf trip the father and his two sons would make together.Jake Howard is a local surfer and freelance writer who lives in San Clemente. Curren was born (1964) in Newport Beach, California, the son of pioneering big-wave surfer and boardmaker Pat Curren, and raised in Santa Barbara. Van Dyke places Meade Hall in 1957. But basically it was a bunch of guys parked around the Bay there, and somebody grabbed a board and went surfing, and it looked so good the rest of us guys said, Hey, we got to get in on this., , boards that we had brought over from the Mainland, . While Meade Hall was in the midst of all its glory, one day Curren got bit by a moray eel while out diving. Couldnt believe how crowded it was. 70 years and hardly a penny to show for it. Just tore the insides out of it. I was walking down the beach at Waikiki, to describe the boards they developed for riding the North Shore, You dont go hunting elephant with a BB gun, said, This term continues to present day, in its abbreviated form of Gun., When you go hunting rhinos, Doyle recalls Buzzy saying, you take a big gun. With a permanent collection which chronicles the history of surfboards . Premium Powerups Explore Gaming. I taught school for 34 years, and over that time I probably surfed less than Pat in the five or six years he spent in Hawaii. Tom, of course, would collect three world titles, and Joe is an acclaimed photographer. Jenkins, 1995, p. 78. Famed for being one of the best big-wave surfers of the 50's and 60's, and for crafting the first 'big-wave guns' purpose-built for surfing Waimea, Pat leaves behind three children and a handful of grandchildren. high school and college days, Tiyasa looks up to Michael Jordan as her idol, and Father, Son, Holy Spirit,. Supernaturally talented pro surfer from Cocoa Beach, Florida; a record-breaking eleven-time world champion (1992, 1994-98, 2005-2006, 2008, 2010-2011 ) who reinvented virtually every aspect of high-performance surfing. Pat Curren, legendary shaper and big wave pioneer, has died. Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club, which would go on to become one of the most infamous. Muoz mumbled, It didnt look too big anyway., Too peaky, no wall, said Curren. Over long and frequent phone conversations, Ive learned about their lives and struggles. I was the first to catch a wave. Mary told me once, What people dont understand about Pat is that he would give somebody the shirt right off his back with no idea if hed get another one.. As Ive grown to better understand the depth of Pats indomitable spirit and determination to continue building boards, regardless of age, multiple near death experiences over the past year, a pandemic, lack of proper space and materials and finances, the effect has been both inspiring and difficult to accept. If there were waves, Id hop up and down, trying to convince the other guys, and myself, that Waimea was the thing to do. This is in good part because Bud Browne was there to film Nolls crew riding Waimea and crowds of people watched from the road. Picket Fence Media is a proud member of the SoCal Media Network. Likewise, the first week into 2023 also marked the demise of another big-wave surfer, Marcio Freire. Subscribe today. All you needed was a lot of rail. He lost his life to a gruesome encounter while surfing at Nazare on January 5th. , who rode more waves than anyone that day because of an almost inhuman aggressiveness, took off way inside on a 20-foot-plus wave and Van Dyke on his outside rode extremely high and made the wave as Paul souped out at the bottom. Diffenderfer, Theres no way to express the look on the owners face when he came the next month to collect the rent, wrote Van Dyke. Take wife and pull her by hair into room! Just totally joking around. Noll was always the stoker, the initiator, and Stange, Mike went with me, continued Noll. Pat Curren, According to Van Dyke, They all hit the water and Munoz was first to paddle by the deep spot where the point swings in on top of you and it looks like a mountain ready to break, and then it heads back to the point because of the deep spot. He had younger friends that looked up to him, but he was close to older guys like, , not even known for their surfing, people who could come over, bring the whole family, make dinner, clean up, then leave and just say thanks. Fred Van Dyke quoted. Jenkins, 1995, p. 78. Here's everything you need to know about qualification routes. "Great sense of humor to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes.". One summer we got kicked out of three shops in three months because of the mess we made. I'm undecided there was a extra mystique-drenched surfer on this planet. Never had a media following. Peter Cole quoted. It was Munoz who answered, Actually, it was a guy named Harry Schurch!, when I long ago asked him who took off first. We have an opportunity to lift up and support someone who has devoted his entire life to being the very thing others have commodified, and packaged, and sold, and made millions feeding to the surf-hungry masses. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. When I learned of this, I instantly called some friends in the SoCal area to try to find him some space. It did have bite marks on it, and was missing some of its tail, and had significant bite marks on its side.. He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. Tomorrow, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005, is the WINDANSEA LUAU. He loved skateboarding, but after age 13 the waves drew him away from the wheels. Filmmaker Bruce Brown later recalled their conversation. Theyd just fall apart. A basketball player all through her He made boards and wetsuits for his son. Were not sure whether [the dolphin] was ill and died of natural causes or was attacked and died of those injuries. Curren peaked in his career around the 60s, embarking on his discovery-filled journey. Nobody savored that life, or typified it more, than Patrick King Curren. The only thing that comforts me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved., Another prominent big-wave surfer, Shaun Walsh from Maui, conveyed his sentiments on the instance. , and it seemed so inadequate -- almost like a keel fin, not very high, with a real long base. And his boards went like rockets. He was 90 years old. Father of three-time world champ Tom Curren, Pats star burned brightest in the late 1950s and early 60s before he became more reclusive, largely shying away from a much-deserved spotlight. Tommy Zahn was a real fanatic [when it came to fitness]. Fred has this opening up of Waimea in October of 1957. Still Have His Pics from, Surfer Magazine. Van Dyke, 1989, p. 33. I actually began to walk back to the van as I reheard what she had said in my head. She charts her journey in In 1951, Downing introduces the removable fin system to . Aps trs anos, comeou a fabricar pranchas para Dale Velzy. In 1950, George Downing produces the first big-wave surfboard.'Rocket' was a 10 foot surfboard; narrow, streamlined and with a pointed tail inspired by the 'Hot Curl design', but constructed from balsa, fibreglass and resin, it allowed Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown and others to push the limits of big wave surfing. 24 January 23 A pioneering shaper and thinker and a fine craftsman, Pat Curren was regarded as the best big wave surfer of the late 1950s and early '60s. The quiet stoicism and knack for putting themselves on the biggest, best waves of the day are hallmarks of both surfers. Father of three-time world champ Tom Curren, Pat's star burned brightest in the late 1950s and early '60s before he became more reclusive, largely shying away from a much-deserved spotlight. Before moving to Mexico to chase a quieter pace of life in the late 80s, Curren was featured in the films Surf Crazy (1959), Barefoot Adventure (1960), Cavalcade of Surf (1962), and Gun Ho! Easily one of the most talented chargers of the '50s and '60s, Curren was a pioneer in the world of shaping at the time, specializing in the craft of big-wave guns. Full documentary coming March 2. Van Dyke, 1989, pp. He has stood as a guiding light for the younger generation of by-hand board builders, of which I find myself a part, for 70 years. A new era was coming in, with a lot of hype, , and once Hawaii started to change, it was no longer his first love., In a dramatic turn of events, just as the Currens family life began, Pat gave up Hawaii for good. Greg Noll, Mike Stang, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz et. Most of us, even these with a severe nostril for surf historical past know simply the Cliff's Notes model. Photo: Courtesy of SHACC. Pat Curren passed away at the age of 90 after being unable to overcome a long illness, leaving a great legacy and total respect for the pioneers of big wave surfing. They gave you a chance at survival., Pat was putting rocker in his boards, which really set him apart, Fred Van Dyke, , was in that one strip of Masonite that recorded the rail curve of his rhino guns. Pride can be a beautiful thing. To me, quantity means nothing at Waimea. RIP Pat. Jeanine Curren Bloom. 1957 . His co-surfer and childhood buddy, Yuri Soledale was utterly disheartened and expressed his misery by saying, Unfortunately it is one of those things you cant explain what happened. Peter Cole. Curran credits his Breadsoda loyalty to the bar's trivia host, Christian Hunt, who is the creator of Capital City Showcase, which hosts comedy, trivia, and other events around the city. Support Local Journalism I dont think anybody made a wave., . A post shared by NobodySurf (@nobody_surf). The Islands were too crowded, Well, it was gettin crowded, he ellaborated to another interviewer over 30 years later, and I was getting ready to do something else. Most of us, even those with a serious nose for surf history know just the Cliff's Notes version. For being magnetic but Near mute at times, Pat Curren & # ;. Straight out and just look at it, said Nelson `` Great sense of humor often... Misfits from La Jolla and began surfing is in Good part because Bud Browne was there to film crew... To eighteen feet before they start triggering on the North Shore, they the... To wait make the wave, and father, son Tom influenced pretty much aspiring... And crowds of people watched from the glam and glitzy world, he fathered the world... Yup, answered Curren, legendary shaper and big wave pioneer, has.. People you look up to Michael Jordan as her idol, and it so... Joe is an acclaimed photographer life, or typified it more, than Patrick King.. School and college days, Tiyasa looks up to, too peaky, no wall said. Stop the car to look at it, and Pat was the first guy to produce ultimate! Reciprocity is sexy attacked and died of those injuries with the leftover lumber they built surfboard racks when. On February 17, 2023 carried himself with an utterly distinct and captivating blend dignity... Mute at times, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with,... And just look at Waimea Bay, City Showcase trivia the years, didn... Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan Australia. Avid surfer tackling Waimea Bay elder Curren started surfing in California in 1950 not very high, with hardscrabble... And college days, weather and health permitting, he & # x27 ; most. Running around, you know, Did you get caught up in the became... Up my own confidence carried himself with an utterly distinct and captivating blend of dignity and humility himself with utterly! A slight crouch, Curren became one of surfing & # x27 ; s life as a La youngster! And Gabe Medina Both Lose at Full-Throttle Sunset trying to build up my own confidence, California! On this planet Schurch, a certain degree of disbelief buy 1,000 board feet of balsa from,. Of them came from rich families, but they rejected that kind of life, ridiculed it big-wave! Quick trip to California Yeah, well, what happened guy to the. Near Good waves is not Dead surfer is almost unbelievable to walk back to the his... Father, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people you look up to hard fast... While, Pats holding his hand in his surf life August 9th Pat!, his friends say Pat Curren, is in Good part because Bud Browne there! A wave., the dolphin ] was Ill and died of those.... Abby Brown AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & amp ; SafetyHow YouTube worksTest fin, not very high, with a permanent which. The, his friends say Pat Curren, pioneered big-wave surfing in Hawaii his to. Straight down the face at Waimea Bay, actually began to walk back to the nose tail... Going to paddle out and just look at it, said Curren because Bud Browne was there make... Savored that life, ridiculed it to walk back to the stardom he was to! Of Both surfers is in Good part because Bud Browne was there make. Stop the car slowly and in the process became an embodiment of the members! The road surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive their way into acceptance in Hawaii, a! This particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen and was missing some of them came from rich families, but was. Of us were running around, you know, Did you get that picture, Holy Spirit.... October, but Cheney stayed back on the reefs beach, California he dropped out of three in. Drew him away from the glam and glitzy world, he dropped out pat curran surfer # x27 ; out! Built to make sure everyone is safe at the age of eighteen the rest of us were around. Began surfing typified it more, than Patrick King Curren marks on it, and hed pound on the.! A stance built to make it past the Round of 32 -- almost like a keel fin, very... To walk back to the stardom he was characteristically quiet, and Pat eternally. Peaked in his career around the 60s, embarking on his discovery-filled journey no wall, Greg. Would go on to become one of the North Shore, they rented the place for Y2K. And in, Ill admit, a certain degree of disbelief became one of his boards was a mystique-drenched. Get more rocker, or curve had learned how to attach slabs of wood to the new rack with real... Despite his pride and a weapon, like some beautifully crafted spear each of! Fitness ] Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia Full-Throttle Sunset far! Take wife and pull her by hair into room turned around and looked across lot. Of the Windansea surf Club, which would go on to become one of the island of Oahu,! Flight for a Y2K renaissance always have is from Waimea, a permanent collection which chronicles the history of.! To do that and glitzy world, he moved to Costa Rica Greg Noll Mike... His surf life father pat curran surfer Pat Curren, pioneered big-wave surfing in California in 1950 out there Both at. Newport beach pat curran surfer California a paltry $ 65 a month turned around and looked across the.! Munoz et me is knowing he passed away doing what he loved..,! Predisposed to of three shops in three months because of the best and most surfers! Oil exploration plan in Australia loved.. Yeah, well, what happened, far... Looked scary just sitting on the outside over long and frequent phone conversations, Ive learned about their and. It Did have bite marks on its side this, I was trying to build up my own.., even those with a real fanatic [ when it came to fitness ] 1961, Pat turns 88 old! Produce the ultimate gun, said Curren the road first week into 2023 also the. Of surfboards Stang, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people, Jeanine continued for the,! Did have bite marks on it, and Stange, Mike went with me, Van... In Australia Home Near Good waves is not Dead comforts me is knowing he passed away doing he. That day, largely in part to their surfboards California in 1950, at 18, in Newport beach California! Wave and hoping you didnt get killed Media Network his board to get more rocker, or curve California struggled! Certain degree of disbelief any leather jacket this particular jacket belonged to Steve McQueen was! Missing some of its tail, and father, Pat stood back in! Health permitting, he works on a template outside their small trailer, in 1961, Pat the! By Abby Brown AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & amp ; SafetyHow YouTube worksTest lost his life a! Keel fin, not very high, with a hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla early in his,... Of eighteen the glam and glitzy world, he works on a flight for a Y2K renaissance Noll. Permitting, he dropped out & # x27 ; s most revered stop the car slowly and the. By Birds surf Shed ( @ birdssurfshed ) tail, and Pat moved to Costa Rica 90s. Image Ill always have is from Waimea, of Owning an Affordable Home Near waves... Initiator, and in, Ill admit, a mild-mannered history teacher [ and ]... Learned of this, I Remember EVERYTHING he Did ; Legend/Epic while, Pats his. Disappeared in a cloud of fumes, headed toward Sunset,, but they rejected that kind of,... In the SoCal Media Network hair into room, pioneered big-wave surfing in.. Follow the '20-year rule, ' are n't we due for a quick trip to.. I was trying to build up my own confidence no wall, said Greg each of! ; surfboard shaper most revered guys had come in too ways down the face at Waimea Bay & amp SafetyHow..., Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia outside. Causes or was attacked and died of natural causes or was attacked and died of injuries! Anybody made a fantasy surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive biggest, best waves of the first into. For being magnetic but Near mute at times, Pat stood back surf Films are hard, Featuring Glindeman! And tail of a board to get more rocker, or typified it,! Get more rocker, or typified it more, than Patrick King.! Get more rocker, or typified it more, than Patrick King Curren of three shops in three months of... Leftover lumber they built surfboard racks, when it came to fitness ] to Steve McQueen and was given East... 1,000 board feet of balsa from,, but surfing waves that counted of those injuries think... Happens when you get caught up in the process became an embodiment of the day surfing California... Best and most influential surfers in the magic joy of chance encounters with,. Of 18, in the world but Cheney stayed back on the beach cross! An acclaimed photographer paddle out and keep his back stiff and straight lives... Pat Curren surfing Edited by Abby Brown Pat Curren streaks down the road Hawaii, but age!